1
Cracked, Heaved, or Settling Concrete Patios
Serious Concrete slabs that crack across their width, lift at one edge, or sink unevenly. Sections often end up at different heights, which creates trip hazards and low spots where water collects. In bad cases, the slab tilts enough to send runoff straight toward your home's foundation.
Why it happens here Arlington's high-plasticity clay swells after spring downpours and shrinks during summer drought. A slab poured over poorly prepared soil, with thin wire mesh instead of rebar or with too few control joints, can't handle that movement. Builder-grade patios from the 1980s–2000s were often poured as cheaply as possible. On top of that, the 2021 freeze and repeated freeze-thaw cycles opened up existing cracks. Pouring in summer heat without proper curing adds shrinkage cracking from day one.
Signs to watch for - Cracks wider than 1/8 inch or getting wider
- One slab section higher than the next
- Water ponding after rain
- Patio sloping toward the house
- Weeds growing through joints
- Crumbling or flaking surface
Local patterns This is very common in 1960s–70s ranch neighborhoods near Downtown Arlington and UTA, and in 1980s–90s tract homes along the Fielder Road and Matlock corridors. It gets worse after wet springs followed by dry Augusts.
Our fix Remove and replace with a properly compacted base, #3 or #4 rebar grid, planned control and expansion joints, correct slope away from the house, and controlled curing.
2
Patio Separating From the House Foundation
Serious A widening gap where the patio slab meets the home's foundation. Water, debris, and pests can get into it. As the gap grows, water runs down along the foundation wall, which can worsen foundation movement and cause moisture problems inside.
Why it happens here The house slab and the patio slab move independently on expansive clay. Post-tensioned home foundations are engineered to resist movement, but the builder-grade patio usually isn't, so the patio settles or rotates away. Missing or failed expansion joint material and no doweling at the connection let the gap open each season. Heavy convective storms then push water into that gap.
Signs to watch for - Visible gap at the house-to-patio joint
- Patio edge dropping lower than the threshold
- Water staining on brick near grade
- Ants or termites at the joint
- Door thresholds no longer level with the slab
Local patterns Most common on 1980s–2000s post-tension slab homes in South and Southwest Arlington, Grand Prairie, and Cedar Hill, where the original patio was poured as an afterthought.
Our fix Seal or replace the joint with proper expansion material. Where settling is severe, replace the slab with correct base prep, drainage, and a connection detail that's safe for post-tension slabs.
3
Hail- and Storm-Damaged Patio Covers
Emergency Physical damage to patio covers and shade structures from hail, wind, or falling limbs. That includes cracked polycarbonate panels, dented aluminum, torn shade sails and fabric, and loosened posts or ledgers that can turn into a safety hazard during the next storm.
Why it happens here North Texas sits in Hail Alley, and March–June storms regularly produce golf-ball-size or larger stones. Thin aluminum awnings, cheap polycarbonate, and fabric shades simply aren't built for that. Straight-line winds above 60 mph put uplift loads on structures with shallow footings or weak ledger attachments. Storm-chasing crews add to the problem, because they often reinstall the same flimsy products that failed.
Signs to watch for - Cracked or punctured roof panels
- Dents across aluminum or louvers
- Torn or sagging fabric
- Posts leaning or loose at the base
- Ledger pulling from the wall
- New leaks after a storm
Local patterns We see damage clusters after spring hailstorms across Arlington, Mansfield, and Grand Prairie. Neighborhoods near Joe Pool Lake and Lake Arlington take more wind exposure.
Our fix Secure or remove unsafe components, document damage for your insurance claim, and rebuild with impact-resistant roofing, engineered connections, and footings sized for local wind loads.
4
Leaking Roof Tie-Ins on Attached Covers
Serious Water getting in where an attached patio cover connects to the home's roof or wall. You'll usually see stains on the cover's ceiling, rotted fascia, or leaks into the house. It can also void your shingle manufacturer's warranty.
Why it happens here Brick homes need careful flashing where a ledger meets masonry, and tying a new gable or hip into an existing roofline means matching pitch and weaving shingles correctly. Low-pitch covers on composition shingle fall below manufacturer minimums. Downpours that dump inches of rain in an hour expose every shortcut. Many DIY and storm-crew jobs skip counter-flashing completely.
Signs to watch for - Water stains on the cover ceiling
- Drips along the house wall during rain
- Rotting fascia or ledger board
- Mismatched or lifted shingles at the tie-in
- Mold or mildew on beadboard
Local patterns Common on 1990s–2000s attached covers in South Arlington, Interlochen, and Mansfield, and on any cover added to a hip-roof brick home without proper step and counter-flashing.
Our fix Remove the failed connection, replace damaged framing, and rebuild with proper step and counter-flashing, code-compliant ledger fastening, and a roof pitch that meets shingle manufacturer specs.
5
Rotting, Warping, or Termite-Damaged Wood Structures
Moderate Decay in wood pergolas, patio covers, and decks. You'll see soft or crumbling posts, split beams, twisted rafters, and termite galleries. Left alone, a structural member can fail outright, especially under wind load or the weight of fans and lighting.
Why it happens here Constant UV and heat dry out unsealed cedar and pine, causing checking, graying, and warping. Humid summers and spring rains keep post bases wet, and posts set directly in soil or concrete trap moisture. Subterranean termites are active across the region, and wood in contact with soil gives them an easy way in. Many 1980s–90s covers were never sealed after they were built.
Signs to watch for - Soft wood at post bases
- Deep cracks or checks in beams
- Twisted or sagging rafters
- Mud tubes on posts or framing
- Faded, gray, splintering surfaces
- Loose or rusting fasteners
Local patterns Very common on 1980s–90s wood patio covers in Euless, Duncanville, Cedar Hill, and north Arlington, and on aging decks on the larger, older lots in Kennedale and Everman.
Our fix Replace failed members or the full structure using elevated post bases, pressure-treated or sealed cedar, or low-maintenance aluminum, and set up a resealing schedule.
6
Poor Drainage and Water Ponding Against the Slab
Moderate Rainwater that sits on the patio, runs toward the house, or pools at the edge of the slab instead of draining away. This erodes soil under the slab, speeds up clay movement, and can push moisture into your home's foundation area.
Why it happens here Adding concrete adds impervious surface, and in subdivisions with tight lots and privacy fences, that water has few places to go. Arlington's heavy spring downpours overwhelm flat slabs and undersized gutters. Many older patios were poured with no slope or have settled toward the house. Stormwater rules also discourage dumping runoff onto neighboring lots, so drainage has to be planned rather than improvised.
Signs to watch for - Puddles lasting hours after rain
- Water flowing toward doors
- Soil washing out at slab edges
- Mildew or algae on concrete
- Downspouts emptying onto the patio
Local patterns Most noticeable on smaller lots in newer Mansfield, far southwest Arlington, and south Fort Worth subdivisions, and on older central Arlington patios that have settled backward.
Our fix Regrade, pour new slabs at proper slope, add gutters to covers, and install trench drains or French drains that route water safely toward the street or approved drainage paths.
7
Unusable, Sun-Baked Patios With No Real Shade
Minor An open slab or a pergola so open it gives almost no shade. Concrete surfaces get hot enough to burn bare feet, and furniture and fabrics fade fast. The space goes unused for most of the year.
Why it happens here Arlington's summer highs sit in the mid-to-upper 90s, with stretches over 100°F and warm nights that never let surfaces cool. West- and south-facing patios take full afternoon sun. Builder-grade homes usually came with a bare 10x10 slab, and many open pergolas give only partial shade at midday. Long mosquito seasons push people indoors too.
Signs to watch for - Patio avoided from June to September
- Concrete too hot to walk on
- Faded cushions and fabric
- Afternoon glare into the home
- Mosquitoes driving people inside
Local patterns This is the most common complaint from owners of 1990s–2010s homes in Southwest Arlington, Viridian, Lakes of Mansfield, and Westchase, especially on west-facing yards.
Our fix Add a solid or insulated patio cover or louvered roof with ceiling fans, lighting, and optional screens, sized and oriented for the afternoon sun angle.
